On The Road Again

A Golden Bay Recipe......

2009-02-09T03:23:00.000-08:00

Howdy all, by now im sure you all know im back home, hope all is well where ever you may be. Heres a quick run through of the summer I just had in the paradise of Golden Bay........ (in recipe form)

Ingredients;

A handfull of random climbing dirtbags.

A campsite for said dirtbags to live in.

A heaped Tablespoon of limestone.

A few birthdays, garnished with much alcohol.

A large amount of incredible boulders that have barely been climbed.

Season with a large walk in the bush.

Throw in an incredible amount of effort made by dirtbags for a festive treat.

Add a pinch of alcohol for the end of year, leave dirtbags to settle on limestone,and gradually watch them climb.

Add a degree of espionage to gain entry to a festival, and get lost for around 5 hours.

Bake in the sun, whilst preparing a cardboard boat, lose the race and win the token trophy.

1 heaped teaspoon of bribery,flattery and climbing, to make a competition.

Add no experience of building to create the uper tier of the fire pit.

And finally,

1 truly amazing night with all the people who make golden bay beautiful and say goodbye with the aid of some gas cannisters on the fire.....

I'll miss you all guys

much love

tom

1 Fearless Vampire killer on Fearless Vampire Killers. (20)

Mea Culpa (27)

Said dirtbags. Helpful hint; when purchasing alcohol for the pub to effectively make your night cheaper, dont ask bar staff to open these purchases for you....(not a good look)

Sick hard mantles at Brooklyn.

Double arete (V4?) Unleashing the walrus move....It takes years to be able to pull this move off. :-)

Shaky Paul on the same problem.

The brooklyn boulders

Hitching on the back of a truck to get to the start of the walk.

Views from the heaphy track. 6 days till xmas and just 130km in my way.

My one night abode in the gouland downs forrest.

Walking to west coast beach

Xmas with around 80 odd people bringing a random dish to the table no one was left hungry...

Dinner time!!

Shaky paul, showing us how to drink and tie a knot at the same time!

A large rope swing over moving traffic should be a feature of every climbing comp.

Dirtbag central

The crew, getting ready to sink there vessel.

Hot chicks on the beach

Nice work sinking the boat lads, heres the winning trophy!!!!

My last hangdog project.

Until the next time Golden Bay, chao!

Why? Wye, thats Why!!!!!!!

2008-10-21T15:27:00.000-07:00

Woooh, check this out a blog thats about 2 weeks apart from the last update, dont expect this to much in the future!!!

So yea, its a rainy day and not too much else to do. So here I am where I started...... back in Golden Bay. Let me tell you how I got here.

Myself and Zef set off on a wee road trip, after a long and sad goodbye to Wanaka we finally leave the winter behind us and go sun searching. But first things first you cant start a good road trip without an awsome climbing venue to get too. And so just south of Queenstown lies Wye Creek. Truly awsome!!

Firstly you must tackle the walk in, an hour of windy upward dirt track then escalating into a rugged forrest track following a large pipeline. To then cross the creek you must cruise along a dodgey looking pipeline bridge which cuts through the contour of the creek and then eventually leaves you at the base of the main cliff.

Super impressive lines usually containing an average of a 2 stars going up at on average around 25metres. Ace!

However the day was the 13th and misfortune took its toll. The platform to walk along the crag is fairly steep and you really wouldnt want to drop anything like a bag with the car keys in down into the abyss below. Oops we did! Luckily it got caught in the thick tussick not too far down, so I took on the retrieval mission and return the bag to a secure locations. Its not over yet....
We done some nice cruisey lines and then finished on a real sweet super long 17 grade route, I thought the guide said it was 25m's long but in fact it said 28. A slight problem for the abseil, espesicailly after you realise your rope is only 46m's long in total. Luckily I pulled off some Tom Cruise style mission impossibe 2 moves and sorted the situation....... Always an epic with Quick Thinking Tom......Just makes it all slightly more memorable and fun.

So after 2 days of cragging, we make our way down south, to some familiar places from my last tour down but also visiting some new places. We arrive at Waipapa point, where a lighthouse on the edge of the island is a haven for sealions, and camera trigger happy tourists. On to various other points of interest (please refer to nicandtom.blogspot.com/road tripping for more details hahaha) and up too nugget point which is a super cool destination on the coast, you walk to another light house on the edge of a cliff to get a view of nugget shaped rocks pertruding out of rough oceans below. We also checked out a real cool waterfall, namely McClean Falls, whiched housed a small trek through the 'rainforest' and leads you to a reallly impressive dump of water spewing out from above......
And so we cruised up the East coast through Dunedin and Christchurch and eventually arriving at Golden Bay, my summer destination, Hangdog.... Brilliant!
Not sure if iv told some of you guys but I applied to run the camp ground as they were looking for new owners but applied just slightly too late, bummer, but all is not lost. After having a chat with the owner I have managed to score a job as Public relations Manager (hahaha just trying to come up with a fancy name for my new role) basically im the guy who answers peoples questions about the area and doing a little bit of guiding and teaching on the side with probably a bit of maintainanc around the camp too...... I am so stoked, I no longer pay camp fees and still get heaps of Climbing time. Cant ask for more really......
Untill the next time my good friends
much love
Tom

xReminiscing Crib Times.

One of the many impressive lines at Wye Creek, 'Dream Thing' 21

This looks like a good clib to have an epic on....

The pipeline bridge

Wye creek, the main clif is the rock on the far right,next to the creek.

Waipapa action

Porpoise Bay, dolphin watching. If you see one please let me know....

The awsome McClean Falls.

Some more moreki boulders..

Nugget Point..

One Sesaon in the Life of a Wok Chef....

2008-10-07T22:20:00.000-07:00

Howdy folks, well it must be around 3-4 months since the last update but im sure you all know what im like with this by now.....so heres a run-down of what a first winter season has been filling my life with.

So as you know i scored a job as a wok chef at the noodle bar at the ski resort known as 'Cardrona'. With a shift rotation of 4 days on 2 days off you'd think alot of snowboarding was to be had for me over the last 3 months, unfortunatly not as much as what I would have liked (mainly due to weather, and little bit of lack of effort) but still a fair amount and I think a wee bit of improvement has been made on the board. So an average day up the hill would be, wake up at around 6:30ish get ready and then get aride with a fellow cardronian to town, to get a ride up the mountain with the staff vans. This was usually an uneventful/good time to catch some z's ride, however sometimes the road conditions were terrible but Cardrona is the mountain that only closes when only certain death is iminant. One particular ride coming down the mountain involved super icy,white out conditions and with a particularly reckless driver we spun out and was left in the van with its back side looking down the rocky drop of one of the corners! Brilliant.

Anyways, so assuming you have made it up the hill alive you then start your working day. For me this was working out what prep was to be done and prepping it. Chopping veg, making sauces, blanching noodles and meat (which was skanky as hell). Whilst at the same time taking full advantage of the barista girls and consuming a fair amount of coffee, also learning to barrista myself, which is something ive been wanting to know for some time. (making coffee right is alot harder than it looks).

And so then we would open. We started off super quiet not having many customers in these times we would go on ride breaks, trade food with other departments and various other not work type of things. But when it got busy it went manic, a shed load of wokking was to be done, luckily for cardrona they employed a samurai jedi wok master!! So that was an average working day for myself, the rest of the season was taken up by many a party, and of course climbing.

I got a little tired of snowboarding and focused alot on climbing but at that time of year both sports are tempermental mainly due to the weather. However I have found I am definatly more of a summer rock person than a winter snow person, dont get me wrong snowboarding is a super enjoyable sport and im guessing another winter season somewhere will happen, but over not to much contemplating I have come to the conclusion that Climbing is a much more superior sport.

And so heres the end of the season, with a large final party at the Crib and a few more nights out on the town its all over in Wanaka. It will be very sad to leave, espsecially seeing good friends go. But thats the way it goes, am very much looking forward to the summer months to come. I was planning on a few walks in the bush but thats been temporarily cancelled due to the track conditions so looks like theres only one thing to do....... that'l be more climbing (shame).

Untill the next time my friends, hope all is well, much love tom x

the noodle bar crew...

good times all the time in wanaka...

cribb fashion....

The return of agent Delta....

The back garden of my former workplace...

Anger management taken out on swedes.

Ninja training school...
Apres drinking amusement.....

We had absolutely nothing to do with the shopping trolley suspended above the ground.......

:-)

Getting ready for winter!

2008-06-13T17:13:00.000-07:00

alright, super sorry once again for the slack effort im putting in on the blog. but this is a quick run down of whats been happening 12000 miles away from all of you!!!

Right so left the bay at the end of April with Nic, Ben, and a canadian guy who almost killed us from boredom, and steadily made our way down to wanaka, of course havin a wee stop off at castle hill for a session on the boulders for a couple of days. During this I made a side trip into Christchurch to catch up with some mates from hangdog, and a seriously heavy night followed involving myself persuading a bouncer to not kick me out of the bar for having fun (starting mosh pits is not cool!!!).

We got ourselves into wanaka, grabbed a few more guys we knew and started the house hunt. Which turned out to be an absolute mission! for about 2 months we looked around properties getting our hopes high then being let down. We stayed in numerous 'free camping' areas around the wanaka area keeping ourselves amused with firearms, explosives, and of course climbing (but mainly the former hehehe).

Finally we had some luck, on our usual wednesday mornings at the cafe hunting through the local rag we find an ad for a wee batch out on a motor camp up for grabs, no hesitations in calling. We got our viewing and left we positive feedback, and like all the other places now we just wait.....and it paid off, alright so now we have a house, next mission find a job as my card wont even let me buy a cookie!!!

Iv been going through quite a few jobs whilst being here, firstly picking grapes which sucked big time!!! although was paid off quite well with the vineyard giving us around 8 cases of beer and a place to stay for free!!! good times! I then done a little bit of labouring for a plumber, lagging pipes and what not, only a few days there. For a little while I helped set up stages for a home show in the local town hall, that was fun. After that came more vineyard work, this time pruning, truly soul destroying but it helps put the pennies in the pocket none the less. I helped out on the campsite chopping wood which was awsome, good honest work. I then managed to blag my way into one of the local ski resorts, which is where i remain, with a free lift pass and loads of discounts in town my non-existing chefing skills seem to be payiong off. At the moment im apparently a wok chef and work in the noodle bar at the Cradrona resort. Awsome!

Not too much riding going on at the moment, but the weather is bringing a nice layer of snow in, and a day out with all the folks at the house is on the cards tomorrow, cant wait..

Once again all is well on the hippy front my friends...

much love as always

t
xx

At the top off my last 27 completed in the bay. Alongside MR Happy Happens.

Just past the crux of Creative Confusion.

Bouldering at the hill.

The hill as beautiful as always.

Waiting for a house at one of our exclusive wasteland retreats.

Wax bombs past the time quite effectively.

And also brushing up on our sniper skills.

Wanaka rock...

Home sweet home, finally...

Welcome to the cribb..... Ithink nic is putting more house pics up on his facebook page so check em out....

sending mea culpa, as always unprepared for the expected!!

2008-04-14T16:17:00.000-07:00

heh all!!!hope all is well your way, once again another delayed entry, but better late than never!so whats been happening in the bay? i guess most of you will have received an email of my climbing exploits and naked bike riding, so heres a little more since then.....You would of never of guessed but a shit load more climbing has been taking place, 2 projects completed one being 'Daves Arete'(25 7b-ish), an imtimidating line with a large run out at the top where should you take the fall it will be of around 5 metres airtime and the nearby pine tree stroking you as you descend, of course i took this fall but soon got the climb after about 4 attempts, one of my favourite climbs here. But my huge achievment of paynes is 'Mea Culpa' (27 7c).Latin for 'forgive me' the hardest and most full on climb i have ever taken on, leaving my quick draws and natual pro in it for about 2 weeks with around 10 attempts i finally got it on Tueaday the 8th of Aprill.Heres the boring bit for non climbers, this is probably more for me than for anyone else......(dont read if you want the onsight)Starting off to get to the first bolt sits you on a great deep jug to clip then move onto a 3 finger pocket, moving up to deep crack for a right hand-jam, pulling through with the left and clipping, this is the last rest for the next 3 bolts. A huge right hand side pull into a 3 finger vertical slot to rock over to the next clipping hold a not so great blocky sloper, once clipped and sorted the feet out, move up to a left hand crimpy pinch, then onto a crimp for the right, pop up to a horrible slopery horn, placing the right foot high then grope for a tiny finger crimp. Next is the 4th clipping hold a sloper with a tiny dimple to pinch, desperatly clip then come over wide for a fairly decent 'ledge' go through to a high crimp then place your feet high to grab the 3 finger nail side pull, crank through to good a hold out right then come back through for the 2 finger side pull crimp, then onto a jug to clip the 5th bolt, the rest is cruisey. Pull up on some easyish holds for an awsome rest in a huge flake where 2 cams protect your fall. pull through to a terrible crimp to a hold that leads you to the beautifull anchor, where pure ecstacy is flowing through your body, the feeling is truly indescribable, climbing a line so precise and stunning. For a long time after you are just content with everything, absolutly awsome!!!Sorry about all that but heh thats what im here for!In other news, some rock embedded in forrest on the way to pohara has caught many a climbers eye. 10 years ago this rock was 'bolted' and around 6-7 lines were formed and the Peanut Slab was its name an area of limstone rock consisting of 3 stunning slabs split by forest. Public got restricted access to this area due to an incident involving a dog and one of the farmers live stock, and the area has not to our knowledge been climbed since.Present day, 4 climbing bums see a slab and get permission by said farmer and go about on an expedition, let the mission begin!!!At around mid-day myself, ben and borg meet at the bunkhouse in camp, we gear up and ride out to the peanut slab, Borg having been here before a couple of days previous (but never getting up the last slab) guided us through the farmers hill and into the forest, with a couple of small caves to crawl through and trees to climb up we arrive at the first slab, Borg pointed out the line they prviously went up, however after spying out another line to the left I was super keen to get roped up and lead up it. Again a wee scramble up a tree to get over the bulge and clip the first and only bolt, I break off left cleaning moss off possible foot holds as I go and get to the first nut, there are no bolts on this slab the only protection is rusty nuts that have been drilled in, leaving us with 2 options affix a carrot bolt over the top (of which we only had 2) or attach a wire over the top and tightening it with a nut head and clipping that. The former seemed a much safer call, I lead up and past the second and then it all goes a bit hairy a super long run out to the next i gingerly work my feet up whilst testing loose rock with my hands and pulling off half the rock face, not quite trusting anything i grab onto the next bolt pinching the balls out of it and attaching my next bit of gear,moving onward a serious lack of feet and hand holds were incounted, after exausting all my climbing I see some faily strong looking weeds above me, grab hold of those and over the lip to fall into an abyss of berry bushes to set up an anchor. With no worries the others followed me up, and onto the next slab whilst admiring some of the best views of golden bay from the ledge.Borg tackled the next one, with a funny moment of Borg talking to himself (in between filling his pants, as we all did) of 'just stand up Borg, just stand up'. This is just before a ballsy dynamic move to finish. Borg set up the anchor then Ben led up and i followed on second. To get to the third slab and now we saw why the others hadnt made it up there......Ontop of the second leads to a 4-5 metre drop and then the slab but of course with a huge bulge to stop you getting onto it. However determined to get up it we spy out a possibillity. Abot 8 metres away right on the lip of the bulge is a bolt, Ben traversed across and i then followed. Ben secured himself on to one rusty bolt, and being left with no choice i saftied onto the same, now getting over the bulge was the problem,.....no worries.I mantled up onto Bens leg whilst pulling on my safety line and scraped myself onto the slab. Now regretting the choice to lead it first. All starting off well, actually good foot holds and nicely placed bolts up until the 3rd.....this is where it got scary a large run out to the next bolt and no holds, I almost backed off but with no one else keen to lead it i had to push on, i eventually made it to the bolt and quickly put my gear in then pushed through to a tree where i attached a sling and geared up there. The next bit was aout 4 metres long and hillariously chossy. Everything i touched would either come off in large chunks or just crumble in my hands, in between shouting 'ROCK BELOW' etc i scrambled up this last pitch to come to a dead tree which had to be ripped out and various other rocks being thrown down below i set up an anchor and everyone took it in turns to do the last 'death pitch' an incredible view and sunset ended the adventure to leave me and Ben scrambling down in the dark with no head torch, classicly fullfilling the Hangdog way; being unprepared for the expected. OK so my time in the bay is nearly at an end hopefully will be updating you with adventures from down south in the next post.
untill the next time my friends......
tom
all the pics are abit scrambled but cant be bothered to sort it, any complaints please email my secretary at dontgivea****@hahaha.com

Not really any significance here, i just look like a bad-ass!!

The last few moves on a climb called 'Lost Soul' 21

Mea Culpa! moving past the 4th bolt.

That'll be the incredibly crap sloper to clip the 4th.
Moving just below the 3rd

Just above the 5th now coming up to the huge flakey rest
de-jah vou

Thats a guy called Tom, super stoked to have climbed Mea Culpa, at the anchors smiling away.......

Ben belaying the second pitch on the peanut slab

Just stand up Borg....
Chilling under the second pitch.

Views from the slab..

I love the smell of peanut slabs in the morning!@!

A hold?

Awsome protection!!!!

The 3rd and final pitch....... cue jaws theme or somethng just as sinister.....

1080 and the letter G.

2008-02-12T14:44:00.000-08:00

Ok so once again quick thinking tom has become mega slack on the blog, and will no dought continue to be so, so future apoligies for that...
But anyways life is back to whatever normal maybe in the region of golden bay in new zealand. With an array of climbs being smashed by yours truly and an even higher number crushing me. But heres a few pics of the climb of paynes ford, 1080 and the letter G. A huge intimidating roof holding a number of bolts to get you through to the end. And of course with a cave halfway up a perfect photo op, with head rushing, adrenaline fueled bat hangs...... check it out guys,
i think the majority of my post will be on the short side, as errrm well yea ok im lazy.......
much love
tom
xx

Now coming onto the crux move (23)

Taking it easy on the huge holds...

WAAAAAHAAAAA

hanging on a thread pics........

2008-02-08T17:43:00.000-08:00

Ok sorry for the delay guys but heres the pics to accompany the last blog entry, will work on the next entry over the next couple of days.......

On top of Takaka hill

Gearing up....

This is where the fun begins....

The balls start to shrink at about this point....
Thats me on the first ab.
Looking through bens crotch....
Quick thinking tom...
My abode for 7 hours
Hope flying over....
dont really know what to say here..........

Hanging on a Thread....

2008-01-14T15:53:00.000-08:00

Heh guys. Hope all is well. I think its definatly time for another blog entry, im fairly sure by now you all know or have some idea what I have been up to, unfortunatly the information portrayed in the press has been giving an impression that is not entirerly true and not (in my opinion) focusing in on the important issues. So this entry is to give you (my friends and my family) my point of view of the events that happened on the 9/1/08.

For a while myself and friends have been discussing a trip through Howards Hole, the biggest cave systen in New Zealand and also the biggest in the southern hemisphere. We got info from relevant persons who had already been down and made sure we all had the necersary gear we needed. The day before, we kitted up and divided ourselves into two teams of four. We wake up early and head up to the top of Takaka hill where the cave resides. Originally the first team should of been already down the cave when we arrived but they were still getting through the abseil, we debated weather we should follow and decided to wait an hour for them to get moving. In this time we practiced rope skills and getting syked to go down.

The time came, and Ben went down first with no problems, he shouted up when he had hit the ground and I started to get ready to descend. Looking down is pretty scary, this cave holds a 170m odd abseil where you are in free air for the majority of the time. Once I was happy with my set up I started the descent. Once over the initial 'holy shit' of looking down and hanging around in space the appreciation of the cave sets in, its just incredible this hole in the earth is just magnificent. The abseil was going well, pretty steady and smooth, I look down and start to see the ground rise below me, couldnt wait to start the caving adventure.

I then feel something odd and look at my figure of eight (the device to abseil on) and see thread, not rope, for about 2 seconds I couldnt figure out what was happening and then it dawned upon me. I look up and see about 2m's of sheathless cord above me, its hard to remember what was going through my head at this point but I know I was scared. I tried to continue the abseil for a metre or so but was just impossible due to the mess the rope was in and was catching on my prussick (a safety back up). I shouted down to Ben and told him the situation (although comunication was really difficult due to the echoe). I calmed myself and went through possible options to either go back up the rope or continue going down, neither seemed possible to me without the risk of the 40m drop below me. I attached another prussick to the cord above me, not so much that I thort it would hold me but just for peace of mind. A state of hopelesness settled in for a short time, this was the point when I shouted up to my friends above to get help. Then I saw the ledge (the only one in the entire abseil). I tried to get to it but it was just out of reach, I called down to Ben to swing me. I managed to grab onto to some loose rock and got myself onto the ledge.

I was now slightly happier with the situation, the ledge wasnt great, but the foot hold was good and the crimps (small finger holds) were just about good enough for me to try to get weight off the rope,this was made diffacult with the tightness of the prussick and leaving me to tip toe on the ledge to reduce the friction on the rope.

And so thats where I stayed for seven hours or so, it didnt feel like seven hours, I dont know what it felt like. Comunication was frustrating as I couldnt understand much that was being said to me (again due to the echoes) and vice-versa with my friends. I could move into about 2 differnet positions to rest certain parts of my body, this became a regular thing for me to do. I thort alot about so many differnt things- my family, my friends, my life. This did not help me to much as I became emotional at one point and had to snap out of it as I needed all the energy I had. I was angry at times, and at other times I was laughing at myself. I couldnt get into my pack for warmer clothes due to my hands getting so cold, likewise with food and drink. I remember at one point I found some twigs in the moss that acted like straws so I was sucking water off the moss with my new found toy, this occupied me for quite awhile.

Hearing helicopters above shot a huge amount of hope into me and then that soon dissapated when they just flew straight over, this happened a few times. At one time I thort I heard people coming but it just didnt happen. Then at around 9pm (i did not have the time on me,this is just what I was told) a rope was dropped. At last it was over.

The SAR guy came down, and I emediatly asked him to get me onto a safety line, once that was clipped man I was so happy!! I asked the guy to look at my set up and asked him if it was my fault for the rope damage, he said it wasnt. We went through possible self rescue techniques, but even he said if I of had the relevant ascending gear it would have been 50/50 of success going up. He then equiped me with some gear and started to ascend up the rope. The cord was not staying in the jumar or the ascender so I was assisted with the first section of the rope. Once I was passed the damaged section everything was great. We ascended 140m of rope in a reletivly short amount of time.

I then hit the surface, got checked out by a medical guy and had a long awaited cigarette. I got escorted through the forest by some of the SAR team and police and even got a ride through it on a real sweet quad bike. We got back to the car park, which at this point was full of media reporters, big lights, huge tents, it was just over whelming. I found my friends and huge long hugs were passed around.

We gave a short statement thanking the teams involved, and answered some questions after being debriefed by SAR people. We then awaited the return of Ben who instead of ascending the rope had gone through the cave with a couple of SAR guys.

What followed from that, is what all you guys have heard on the news and pappers etc. We have received a huge amount of shit from the press and various people who are quite frankly not endowed with the facts, these are a few things I would like to clear up;

For the cave we had purchased a BRAND NEW rope specifically designed for long abseils. This was the main factor, in my opinion of the operatin going wrong. The brand new rope failed, it did not melt and the equipment involved was not the reason for it to do so. Yes, we were all not equiped with self rescue gear, however had I had the equipment necersary, I still would not have gone up the rope without a safety line of another rope. The only piece of gear I wish I did have would of been a com radio.

It seems the media are not concerned about this, which I find most distressing. Why is a brand new rope (purchased from a respected manufacturer) failing on the sixth abseil not the main headline? The only clarification we have had is a verbal report from SAR and the police that indeed the rope was faulty.

We have all been bombarded with unnecersary stress and agrivation, but now it seems to have cooled down a fair bit. Life is back to normal and I am still having a great time, I beleive this experince has made me a stronger and happier person. I love all you guys so much and miss you all dearly.

Untill the next time, my friends

peace

St Harvey, the patrent saint of crimping.

p.s. photos will come soon guys........

Everything as it should be.....

2008-01-05T14:06:00.000-08:00

heh heh heh everyone!! happy new year to you all, and hope the festive season was great! much apoligies for the lack of updates but every time i mean to get on a computer some insane mission pops up and of course the blog becomes lower in the priority list, but anyway here it is, finally!!!
Its kind of hard to remember what has happened in the last month but heres a brief run down on whats been going down.
Ok, so i arrive in New Zealand late November, sort out all the paper work bits n pieces and arrange transport to my summer destination; Hangdog. My home away from home, im glad to report that noting has really changed here, the parties are still awsome, the people are amazing company and paynes ford is still standing with the same beautiful lines of killer climbing!
I had a brief search for work with not much luck for quite awhile, and so i gave up. A week later and the offers started pouring in, at one point i had 3 jobs on the go, a bit of labour work, dish washing and working in a fish n chip shop. This was way to much and so I have stuck with just the chippy, which is actually quite alot of fun, I have never worked in such a chaotic enviroment, its just nuts.
And so, weeks of parties and climbing is all that has really been occupying my life, not bad eh? For my Birthday we had a bbq down by the climbing then ventured onto the swiming hole where drunken slackline was taken on. Christmas was a huge feast with 50 odd people eating outside in the blistering sunshine, then a trip down to the beach for windy swimming and chilling in the sand. New years took me up to the top of Takaka hill where there resided a dance party. However the entrance fee was fairly extreme so a recon mission through the forests was definatly the only way to get in. Danced the night away and watched the sun rise come up over the hill at around 1000m. A good way to start the new year!!!
A few days into the new year, me and a few friends decide on a little hike through the cobb valley, we rock up at a sweet little hut at around 10pm at night, have a few beers then rest for the following days mission. An awsome walk through valleys, then onto ridge lines then back down through grassy plateaus (where sandalls are not the most choice of foot wear) then upto another hut 'the asbestos hut' where a couple lived for 30 years!! this is such a sweet story, this guy who was in his 70's would hike backwards and forwards from motueka to this hut which is a real killer distance away, and bring bags of up to 32kg of food back to his wife along with flowers and then set off again the next day!!! Hard core dude!!
Anyways that about sums it up I think, Sorry for it being quite brief but I havent written any of this down and cant remember all of it.
But in a nut shell, life is, as usual awsome. I hope all you guys are well and are having fun where ever you may be!!
much love and peace
tom

Home away from Home.

Another little session on 'Spotty Britt' 24

The aqua slack line.

Setting up the Christmas tree.

It did have a head but the wind blew it off!!, thats the Hangdog crimbo tree!!

Snowmen in the sun.

Christmas feed.

choir on camp.

International Tights Climbing Day!!

Full on tight action.

'Ski-ing off a convex slope' (26) the iron cross in tights!

more tight action on 'Responsible Lunges' 25

I like your balls!

The sushi van, I actually helped build that bad boy!

Driving to the Cobb.

Team marmite and lettuce.

Bullock creek.

Rendevouz! Team Baked bean and Team marmite and Lettuce reunite.

The asbestos mine.

To The End Of The World

2007-11-14T09:46:00.000-08:00

Torres Del Paine, probably south americas most famous national park. Located in the middle of southern Patagonia, 112km north of Puerto Natales. This is where the most extreme hike I have ever taken on takes place (i havent done too many hikes so thats not really saying much, but it was hard, honestly). Firstly the park consists of 2 main hikes (among many others but these are the most popular) the circuit which is around 93kms long and should take around 7 days to complete and the W which is approximatly 76kms long and takes around 4 days. Originally we were going to tackle the circuit, but on further investigation we decided on the W, for a couple of reasons a. we both are running out of time in Chile and want time to spend time with our friends in Santiago, and b. we are lazy (as far as lazy goes walking 70 odd kms!!).

We easily sort out our transport and arrive at Torres Del Paine late morning on Friday 8th of November, fully stocked up with food, camp supplys and energy for what lays ahead......

THIS IS PATAGONIA!!!

(all the numbers on the map should correspond with the numbers on the pictures, so you can see the park how i did, well kind of.Enjoy.)

DAY ONE, approx 6 hours, 19.4 kms covered.

(1) Campsite numero uno, and check out the weather!! To our surprise on our arrival in the park we were greeted with awsome sunshine. We were totally expecting some harsh climate down here but so far so good. We set up our tent, leave our bags and head off for the first trek...
(2) The first part of the trek leads you up a fairly tough hill then into a valley of forrest and streams swirling through,

(2) Sweet little bridge constructions litter the way, some are indeed quite unstable, (as i find out later),

(3) Well this is what the park is named after. Here it is The Towers of Paine, on the right is north tower coming in at 2600m, central tower 2800m and the winner with 2850m is south tower (congratulations) on the left. After the forrests the valley opens up into a huge boulder field going all the way up to the towers base, about 45 minutes or so of scrambling up and here you are greeted with these magnificent granite stuctures, truly amazing....and then for the walk back to camp, awsome first day.....

(3) gotta get the happy tourist pic!!

DAY TWO, approx 7 hours, 16.5kms covered.

(4) Ok so this was going to be the test, our first walk with the back packs. We have to tackle the same first hill again to get on to the right track this totally proved more diffucult and took alot longer to complete but then the trail evens out and is really pleasant to stroll around, admiring the stunning views of the lake and the beautiful flora that surrounds you.... (a misson for you dad, find out the name of this flower im sure its a fire ......... something, i cant find the info anywhere...)

(5) Half of the walk is set around this, Almirante Nieto weighing in at 2640m.

(6) Almost half way there and getting a bit tired, but soaking up the views really gives you the energy to keep pushing on its just amazing trekking through here. In the background is Lago Nordenskjold.

(7) Just past the Refugio (where the hikers with cash go) takes you onto a really beautiful pebble beach, but in the distance I can see a hill, a pretty big one, to get over to the next valley where the free camping resides. This was a stuggle and once at the top I was told by a sign I was at the camping, man I was happy. However this was not the case I was then told by some passers by that I had another 40mins to walk, this was not pleasing news!!

DAY THREE, approx 7hours walking, 10kms covered.

(8) Camp 2, good food and sleep then waking up for another day of trek action.

(9) The first part of today takes us along the Frances river then past the huge Frances glacier (by the way weather is still good at this point). I hear what appears to be thunderstorms but then suddenly figure out its the glacier breaking away and forming avalanches, fortunatly nowhere near me!!
(10) And here it comes right at the end of the track a blizzard awaits me, killer winds apparently 100kms an hour fast but really i dont think they were that bad, but with knee deep snow and the track signs dissapearing i decide its time to head back...

(11) Just in time for the weather to clear and leave some stunning views of the Frances river.

(11) Oh yea, this is the part where I discover some of those logs are just not that stable, and inevitably my foot goes in the swampy marsh below.

(12) This pic is in the wrong order but heh ho. thats the winds blowing me around but still leaving an incredible view of the Cuermos behind me.

(12)Once again the Cuermos, but in clearer weather this time. At the back we have Co. Espada 2500m, then Co. Hoja, moving onto Co. Mascara 2300m, tucked behind the one in front is Cuermo Norte 2400m and the biggest Cuermo Principal 2600m. All the way through the middle part of the W these are looming over you dominating all the views.
(13) Once again we pick up our packs and continue the final part of day 3, and to our gleeful surprise is all flat and totally easy even with the lug of our bags on our backs. I get over the last mound and get a clear view of Refugio camp site which looked terrible (no wind or rain protection for the tents) so the hunt was on for an unofficial free camp site, and tho and behold here it is.....

DAY FOUR, approx 4 hours, 10kms covered

(14) Why noone else had done the same and camped here I am clueless, as this was by far the best spot we had camped. It was perfect tree cover from the elements and a beautiful lake front to chill out by.
(15) We get up earlyish and leave our bags at the camp and take on the final part of the W. Which will lead us to the Grey Glaciar. We wuddle through a deep valley then up some hils to get to the misty lake known as Lagoona Los Patos, a little further and we reach our target of the glaciar look out point.

(16) Just before the glaciar is the Lago Grey, where shards of the glaciar have broken away leaving little islands of ice floating in the lake.....

(17) and there she be Glaciar Grey, all is left is to get back to camp and the W was complete, but we had one more day up our sleeves...

(18) The vessel which was to carry us across the Lago Pehoe, the supposed finale to the W.

(19) Normally at this point you would catch the bus back to Puerto Natales and soak your feet in warm water and sip on hot chocolates, this was not going to happen for us today. We took a short walk to reach the Salto Grande, a fierce water fall in the middle of the park and then onto our final destination the look out point of the Torres range. We walk for maybe another hour or so and reach our goal. Dropping the bags we scale a short but steep hill and soak in the sunset over what I can easily say is the most impressive scenery in Chile.... Our mission was complete, we set up camp near by ate and rested. And to awake on day 5 to the most glorious day we had had so far, not a cloud in the sky leaving amazing viewsfor all to see. Not wanting to leave we pack up and catch the bus.

(21) Our final camp, on our final day. Super Glorious!!!

(21) trekking to the view point.

(20) WE MADE IT!!!

now it was definatly time for beer and pizza!!!

Thank you Torres Del Paine!

Hope you enjoyed guys, one more to go then its time for the familar soil of New Zealand...

until then, peace

tomx

NZ´s bigger bro.......

2007-11-08T13:37:00.001-08:00

Hello all, hope you are all well, here comes another entry and times are just getting better......
After eventually meeting up with Jose in Santiago, I tell him about my planned trip down south which will consist of visiting a small town then onto a port to catch a ferry named the Navimag to sail us down to the southern most regions of Chile. Jose was keen as, and so we sorted out the tickets and the next day catched the bus for Pucon, a small town nestled inbetween 2 glorious lakes and a huge active volcano!!
This is Chiles adventure capital with a ski resort nearby (where you can cruise down the volcano!!) awsome treks, bike tracks, water sports, and the list goes on..... I arrive in Pucon early and find that Pucon is almost a Chillean replica of Wanaka(new zealand)!! This place is amazing, an unbeleivable contrast from the landscapes I had just arrived from. This area of Chile is full of thick green forrests, beautiful pictuesque lakes and of course giant volcanoes puffing smoke in the background!!! I find a cute little hostel to spend my stay and await Jose (who arrives on a different bus) we hook up and plan some long bike rides to some amazing waterfalls and hopefully some natual thermal pools.
The next day we set off on what seemed to be awsome bikes but soon enough various problems arose, mainly gear changing up hill and chains continuously falling off but they made the destinations. We took on a roughly 50km round trip crusing over rivers, down intense dirt slopes, and through tranquil fields and eventually arrived at the water falls (whos name i forget and i dont have my book with me to remind me) a stunning collection of 3 waterfalls clustered together within a curtain of rain forest, pouring out the freshest mountain water which tasted absolutely delicious. We then set off for the thermal pools, the tack started getting harder going, up hill all the way for about 4-5km, nearing the top and we see signs for the thermals, almost feeling the delicious heat of the water we get to the entrance to find it was closed!!! gutted. But the view was incredible, so it wasnt all in vain.
The following day we decide on an éasier´ route, to get to the base of the volcano, this turned out to be an epic of a bike ride roughly the same distance as the previous day but to our great dismay totally up hill, (and not just pussy stowupland hill style but full on hills!!!). We got to the entrance of the national park. With legs feeling like their going to fall off and enough sweat to cure a drought, we decided we had, had enough of the bikes. We stashed them in the forrest and hitched the rest of the way!! (cheating-maybe, i think just wise!) We found ourselves at the base of the volcano, and with acces to some volcanic caves however the entrance fee was ridicuously expensive so we just opted for a cruisey walk around the site, along with snow ball fights and gawping at the incredible structure of mother nature that lay infront of us.
And so that was the end of Pucon and time for another bus ride to take us to Puerto Mont, the port that will be our gateway to Patagonia. We embark on our 4 day cruise that will eventually leave us at Puerto Natalles, upon the Navimag. With alcohol as our only supply, we were ready for a trip through the Patagonian fjords. The first day took us past the sweet island of Chiloe and the weather first amazingly bright and cheerful but soon deteriating into mist and fog and so views were bleak. The next day was much the same but with the crossing of the gulf of penas it got incredibly rough, with the ferry bouncing up and down and the sound of many people worshipping the porcelain god in the background. However day 3 was incredible, the sky lit up and the clouds parted giving us views of the fjords. A quick stop at a cute little port town called Puerto Eden, where we inevitably stocked up on more alcohol and then back on the boat.Sailing through lots of little uninhabitated islands littering the sea, with backdrops of snowcapped mountains marking the end of the Andes mountain range, truly stunning, and also impressive watching the captain navigate a huge ferry through sometimes 80m gaps between islands. This then took us onto the huge glacier that resides here, again another incredible piece of mother natures handy work, words just cant describe the magnitude of beauty this corner of the world has its just mind blowing!! Also as we were ´parked´next to the glacier i took the opurtunity to set up the slackline. Slacklining on a boat is unsurprisingly very hard!!! But to do it in front of a huge glacier was just awsome definatly the best place I have slacklined so far!!!! The last night a Butlins style party was to be had with the starter of bingo and then crazy dancing to truly terrible music, but all good fun.
And so 4 days of drinking, eating, smoking, watching incredible scenery float past us and slacklining infront of Glaciers marks another high point to this trip in Chile for me.
Hope you enjoy the pics guys!!!!
much love as always
tom
x

Volcan, Villarica

The start of the bike track.

Awsome dirt roads.

Luckily we were on green.!!

Beautiful waterfalls.
Ugly tourists.

The entrance to the thermals. Thats a bummer man!

Thats for the entrance fee!!!!

Pucon, in New Zealand or Chile?

1 Case of beer
2 kegs of wine
1 bottle of pisco
cola
chocolate
and of course cheetos,
what more do you need?

Day 1 and 2, mist filled seas.

Our home.

Puerto Eden.

Thats a pretty big glacier.

Oh yea, slacklining infront of a glacier!

cruising through the fjords.

I love this pic......

Thank You Nacimiento!

2007-10-29T15:36:00.000-07:00

And so after Peru the wind blows me back in the direction of Chile. A long and painful bus ride (due to treating myself to an english restaurant and then getting food poisoning) takes me to the fairly unpleasant town of Arica. Although past the smeg of the city resides beautiful beaches, a lovely welcoming hostal (sunny days-recomended) and the entrance to the impressive Lauca national park which homes many a llama, vicuña and huge snow capped volcanoes, 2 days or so was spent in Arica then back to San Pedro de Atacama.
I locate a note left for me by Weffa giving me directions on how to get to the Nacimiento Gorge and set about buying a bus ticket and purchasing food supplies for the trip. The bus however never showed up and apparently the next one was Thursday (today was Monday,i was not happy). I simply could not wait that long.
The next day plan B comenced. Asking in every tour agency if they could give me a ride to the gorge via a tour, this took sometime due to a. My spanish and b. The amount of tour agencies in San Pedro. However eventually i found an agency who accepted my plea.
The morning of the following day i jump on a mini bus who half way through the tour of the San Pedro salt flats (biggest salt flat in Chile and home to 3 out of the 5 species of flamengoes in the world) dropped me off at Nacimiento! I was so happy to be back here, although the remaining tourists didnt share my enthusiasm and probably thought i was crazy being left in the middle of now-where (if only they knew).
I then set about on the next mission- finding my friends in the middle of a dessert! I searched through the west side of the gorge and had no luck I then went on to tackle the east side (which was unfamillar to me) and continued my search. My thoughts were starting to turn, thinking that maybe they had already left when just over the next boulder I finally see some life. Once again reunited with climbing amigos! Weffa, Guillermo, and Leo. A good afternoon of bouldering, food and sleep swiftly followed.
8 awsome days of climbing was to be had, with only one rest day as this place had to taken advantage of. Within the first 2 days Leo and Guillermo left (as they along with Weffa had already been there a week) and left myself and Weffa, we tackled some killer lines of rock from grades of 6a to 7a+ along with a day of cleaning and getting first ascents of boulder problems. We left Nacimiento with some great climbs under our belts (I even managed a 7a onsight, well happy with that puppy!) and started for the long trek back to the nearest town of Socaire which is about 6km´s away. But luck was again on our side a tour bus was coming round the corner which just so happened to be the agency that Weffa worked for, natually we got a ride all the way back to San Pedro, its good to know you Weffa!!!!
An awsome party in San Pedro then on the bus back to Santiago, after 24 hours of semi-cama we arrive in Santiago and Weffa offers me a place to stay for the night, I gratefully accept his offer. Once again another killer party then a day of climbing back in Arrayan forrest with Christian, however only afew lines done as hang overs were kicking in nicely!!
And so all of that now leaves me back in my hostal awaiting my mexican friend to join me in an adventure down south....cant wait
Much love and peace to you all
tom

Some sea lion action at the harbour of Arica.

Dinner time!!

Beautifull sun sets on the beach.

Wild life in the national park.

I shamefully forget the name of this mountain.

Dust, my only friend...... (i hate you)
A nice cruisy 5c\6a
The crux of i think a 6b+, beautiful climb.

Huge Slacklines.

People of the Gorge.

More sun set action.

Killed by the 7a. (but heh, that rug really ties the gorge together).

Boulder time, about 30 seconds away from camp (my kind of walk in).

Fire Weffa!!!

The east side of the gorge.

And the west.......

THANK YOU NACIMIENTO!!!

In the Shadow of a Lost City

2007-10-11T10:37:00.000-07:00

I arrive in Cusco late one Sunday night greeted with terrential rain wanting nothing more than a bed and shelter. Waking up and getting breakfast I decide to explore the ´cultural capital of south america´. Beautiful colonial buildings litter the streets, with action packed markets and random parades fill the atmosphere. Cusco on the surface is indeed beautiful, but scratch a little deeper my friends…..
Walking from one end of the plaza to the other (which takes about 3 minutes) you will undoughtedly be offered a library of various intoxicating substances by at least 3 or 4 different guys. One guy I met chatted to me in great detail about the cheapest way to get to Machu Picchu via busses and hiking and then slowly progressed onto taking me back to his flat- I swiftly moved on!!
After following up on his advice I found it just wasn’t possible for what I wanted to do. Instead I go the less adventurous route and take the train to the ancient city.
Located at 2350m, perched on the eastern slopes of the Vilcanota mountain range, there resides Machu Picchu- the last Inca city. Founded almost 100 years ago in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, covered in 300 year old trees that took around 5 years to clear and unearth the city, however ónly´ 70% is excavated there still resides another 30% of the city under foliage awaiting future archeoligists (you go Ve!!!).
Ok so after getting up pretty damn early I catch my ride to the train station and find my seat on the coach. The train starts off with a huge jolt as though another train has just gone into the back of it then starts running smoothly, then it stops and starts going backwards! On investigation I find out that the train runs on a zig-zagging line up and over Cusco, so many a time of stopping going forwards then backwards about 5-6 times until we get out of the valley. 3 hours of riding through caves, past rapid rivers, and alongside intimidating mountain ranges we arrive at our destination Machu Picchu village. A swarm of tourists trying to find there guides awaits at the station, and onto a 15 minute bus ride to get to the entrance of Machu Picchu.
I join my group of happy Gilmore tourists and enjoy a 1 hour tour of the city having explanations of the different temples, tiers, and living quarters etc. Really interesting history and a cool guide as well. Afterwards, we were given free time to just wander around at our own leisure until the arrival of the last train. This I really enjoyed just sitting on a ledge with like 2000m of air dangling below, contemplating this mighty Inca city, trying to block out all the screams and crys of neighbouring people.
You may have got the feeling this entry is not as enthusiastic as some previous and that’s because I just wasn’t as amazed with Machu Picchu as what I thought I would have been (maybe im the only one). Don’t get me wrong I recommend a visit but for me I feel the magic of this place has disappeared in time. I think my opinion may well be different if the inca trail or another trek was completed beforehand, this I still would love to do.
But anyway still an unforgettable experience, as always lovin it!!
Much love and peace…..
tom

Cusco, looks nice eh?
On the way to the city.

This photo needs Mr Bowie.

The lower tier, home of the less noble.

the Sacred rock, carved into the shape of the mountain range behind.

Wanapicchu. (on the right)
Yea yea

only 30% left to go, come on guys whats the hold up?
Once upon a time many of these trees resided here.

MACHU PICCHU!!

Dreamy Desserts and the Frontiers of Change

2007-10-11T08:21:00.000-07:00

And so the story continues a 2 week vacation from climbing was to be had. With seriously killer hangovers from the night before myself and Jose were ready to go check out a couple of other countries. First stop Bolivia.
From San Pedro we jumped on the mini bus which took us through immigrations and connected us with our 4x4 jeep waiting at the Bolivian border, which is basically a shack at 4800m altitude in the middle of what seems to be now-where. Welcome to Bolivia!
We set off with our bags tied down to the roof of the jeep and begin our 3 day tour across the desserts. Accompanied by a few other nations- French (Steffanie), Korean (Sin and ……..?) and Bolivian (the driver) spirits were high (well mine and Jose´s were, France was worried about the cold and Korea was suffering from harsh altitude sickness). Bouncing around the jeep like jibber-jabbers on amphetamines with the blissful Spanish remixes of 80´s classics such as ´total eclipse of the heart´ we arrive at our first photogenic location – lagoona verde or the green lake amazingly enough its called that because its green! But seriously, the high volume of copper and various other minerals (again my Spanish fails me) gives the lake its green complexion. We drive on through more seemingly never-ending dessert landscape past some rocks that have some resemblance of Salvador Dahli´s art work, however we were so far away they just seemed like rocks that have a resemblance of far off rocks (a little disapointed with that stop). Anyway, onto the bubbling geysers, with thick clouds of steam and the ´sweet´ aroma of sulphur jutting out of little craters scattered across the floor. Then more 4x4 action and lunch, at what was to be our home for the night. A small collection of shelters in the dessert accompanied with cold winds and sinister llamas. Llamas are actually really sweet chilled out creatures, however conversation somehow led to the uncovering of a government experiment making a new race of super llamas which will eventually take over the world (think 28 days later but with llamas). Ok back to ´reality´, after lunch and siestas we had a short drive to lagoona Colorado, same deal as lagoona verde however this time red a really deep blood red (the plot thickens!) with a mass of bright pink flamingos littering the lake like fallen pink stars. This was the most beautiful lake of all we saw along this trip, really amazing and so full of life.
With the discovery of the jeeps aux output, only good music was to be listened to for the rest of our journey (80´s classics just doesn’t cut the mustard) and onto the lagoona Honda or the deep lake – its deep and it’s a lake, there you go! The next stop was one of my favourites, more Dahli rocks but this time up close and personal. Thousands of years of wind erosion create a stone monument more than worthy of the Tate Modern. Of course I had to inspect the bouldering capabilities, however only with my eyes as I believe this rock was more than just a boulder, also I believe that it would probably snap at the base with anymore excess weight and squash the subsequent climber (thus becoming even more worthy of the Tate Modern). A few more lakes followed packed with life from more flamingos, llamas and vicunas (a kind of llama but less hairy) and then the salt hotel- a hotel made of salt, its true!! The floor, the walls, the tables, chairs everything was made out of salt (I hear the pepper hotel is still under construction). We were the only occupants of the hotel, cattered with an awesome meal then after, the guide showed us a really hard hitting video about the life of a boy in Bolivia working to support his family and his own schooling- beautifully presented and so sad to see not just on the screen but for the next few days in the flesh. It amazes and deeply saddens me how one strip of land, a frontier or border can have such a dramatic impact on peoples lives.
The next and final day of the tour takes us to the salt flats of Uyni- the biggest salt flat in the world. Its here because once upon a time this part of the world was unde the sea and with the growth of the andes (which by the way is one of the youngest mountain ranges and is still growng) forms obviously mountains and therefore a ramp is created for the sea to run down and leave its salt(or something like that). The further we drive the less we see, only whiteness, everywhere, its like being in a dream. The sky is white with only a hint of blue and the ground a carpet of salt forming strange hexagonal patterns. A mystical place, and in what could be the middle an island (of earth) named Incahuasi translated roughly as Inca island, a bizarre land of rocks and cactus that just seem as though it shouldn’t really be there. After about another 20 minutes of driving the salt flats finish and the dreamy landscapes end.
We arrive in Uyni where we walk around the markets and the purchase of an almighty poncho takes place. We have food and some beers, say our farewells to Steff and arrange a bus to La Paz. This was the worst bus ride of my life, non stop pot holes restricting anykind of rest. Every now and again stopping to either help other vehicles that had broken down or stopping because we had broken down but eventually we made it.
Stumbling through the streets of La Paz to find a place to stay and straight away getting on with our 2 missions- sort out a visa for Jose and buy myself a camera, the former of the two proved most difficult for Jose. We spent the rest of the day wondering around the city continuously amused by the trigger happiness of the drivers horns. After a walk through the infamous witches markets where hanging carcus´ of llamas, skulls, many a talisman and potions reside we decided it time for food. After which a visit to an entertaining Jokers style Bolivian club.
Next day, without surprise more visa problems as the weekend was drawing nigh the embassy would not grant the documents for Jose until next week and so Jose would have to return to La Paz. We checked out and left our bags in storage, on return to the hostel to our dismay the building was closed and our bags locked inside (shit!). We soon found the reason why, a protest was being held by the street merchants. From what I can gather it was about the capital status being moved to another city and thus removing the tourist trade away from the merchants. However this was not your average protest more like a party was being held in the streets with fireworks and music.
We returned to the hostel a few hours later and luckily they had re-opened, grabbed our bags and paced to the bus station only to find no more busses were leaving were leaving to Copacabaña (a place which boasts the biggest lake at the higest altitude in south America, on the Peruvian and Bolivian border). Truly gutted, both of us not keen on spending another night in the city. Randomly I took a walk around the terminal and spotted a bus now leaving, with dodgey Spanish I manage to grab us a ride, awesome!
We were on our way for a couple of days of chilling by the lake front. And what a lake, you look at it and think it’s the sea, its just unimaginaly big! A nice session of slackline and a freezing boat ride to the island of the sun passed the days.
And so minus my Mexican amigo I venture off into Peru for a visit to some ancient city I hear a few people go to……

Thats the border.
lagoona verde.

Not much goin here.

Bubbling geysers

The llamas were no match for me!

The secret lair of the super llamas

Salavdor Sand.

Its all salt!!!

Bizzare salty island.

Dreamy whiteness

La Paz, check out the huge crag in the middle of the city!!

´Protest´.

The witches market.
Just chillin.

Island of the sun.
Lake Tikicaka

San Pedro de Ata-semi-cama

2007-10-04T13:37:00.000-07:00

Once again another really boring blog entry, hope you enjoy guys!!
25 hours in semi-cama ´luxory´ on the Tur bus and finally I hit San Pedro de Atacama, the driest dessert in the world at an altitude of around 2500m above sea level. Fate mouldered me together with 3 other travelling folk 2 sweedish girls (I forget there names) and a Mexican named jose. We then set off into town to find a place to sleep which is no problem in the tourist haven of San Pedro.
Walking through the dusty streets curtained by simple but beautiful clay and mortar structures with a backdrop of the andes sharing borders with Argentina and Bolivia. I instantly fell in love with this town, despite a tour agency on almost along every street San Pedro holds its own modest and unique character with many a foreign language bouncing off the walls and the impeccable friendliness of the locals.
After a good sleep in the chosen hostel myself and Jose went on a sand boarding mission, not to keen on the tour option we hired out some push bikes and the most important ingredient 2 sand boards. We get directions to the nearest dunes and set off with water and a little supply of food. Inevitably getting lost on the way after realising we had forgotten the map! However soon found our bearings and entered valle de morte (death valley) namely because of the lack of life that resides here. We ride through a winding gorge reminiscent of Indiana Jones movies, getting stuck in the sand and eventually giving up and walking the rest of the way but to find some dunes worthy of testing out the sand boards.
Applying a ridiculous amount of candle wax to the bottom of the boards we manage to get some small runs in. For around 3 hours lots of laughs, sand in places you didn’t know even existed and many a photo was had, but here in lies the problem- DO NOT SAND BOARD WITH A CAMERA IN YOUR POCKET!! That’s right, somehow the sand god possessed my camera and brainwashed it into not working anymore, a slight downer but not all was lost as all the photos were saved on the card.
That evening I met my climbing contact – Weffa, an awesome chillean guy working in San Pedro whos kindness and friendliness continually shines. Weffa gave me a place to stay much cheaper than the hostel and great company. Unfortunatly another 2 weeks of work was on the cards for him so no long trips to the climbing (yet). Slackline and boulder training was the only option for now.
The next evening myself and Jose booked up a tour for the valle de luna (moon valley). We set off in the afternoon via mini bus and started off in valle de morte where the guide explained the history and landscape, then onto some walks through gorges and caves and then to the beautiful valle de luna where we soaked in a mighty sun set, set over huge sand dunes and jagged rock formations watching the colours fuel the atmosphere. An inspiring and thought provoking place spoilt only by the waves of tourists fully armed with cannons, Fujifilm, sony and what have yous, robbing the soul of this magical place(ok a little hypocritical but heh you know what I mean). On a return visit the hire of a bike will be the only option to avoid the swarms and stay for a longer time.
Once again I met up with Weffa and a plan was made, the next day we would climb at Nacimiento Gorge for the day, and so we did! Around about an hour and a half in the car armed with climbing equipment and 3 other local climbers from San Pedro we arrive at the gorge where approx 800 routes of sport climbing, traditional and bouldering resides, a true climbers paradise. This place has a kind of magnetic energy drawing you into a state of tranquillity and calmness, never have I been to such a place, a true high point of my trip.
Starting off on a nice 5.11 (6a) for the warm up and to get the leading head back on, then onto an amazing 5.11 (6c) starting on fairly thin holds then moving up to a series of diagonal ledges to a not so positive arête making the clip then moving left on a narley 3 finger crimp to grab the polished jug, a little bit of disco leg then to the anchor and a huge gulp of relief- a classic route completed with the flash. Next up anoher 5.11 but slightly harder, possibly 6c+ with balency moves and endurance on crimps, to cracks, to slopers, pockets and even a Thailand style tofa at the top, 2 attempts and I managed it clean. Last stop was a top roped 5.12 (7a) again another classic on thin inclining holds. On return to San Pedro food and bed was all that could be achieved.
After discussion with Weffa and Jose a plan was hatched for me to return to San Pedro in about 2 weeks time for a 2 week session at the gorge with Weffa. But what to do in 2 weeks? A trip through the bolivian salt flats then onto Peru for a visit to Machu Pichu with a Mexican, sounds like a fine plan to me…………
Untill the next time guys, chao!!!!

The charming San Pedro at dusk.
Oh yea, watch out for the mines!
Looking at where we should be.
Death Valley

Time for some sand board action.
Jose on the dunes.

Take the god damn camera out of your pocket man!!
Hippies on mars.

Moon Valley.
The impressive dune.

Look close to see the people walking across.
Sun set on the moon.

The Heart of Bouldering.....

2007-09-25T06:20:00.000-07:00

Hola to you all! Hope all is well, finally have a chance to update the blog so here goes……
After Rapa Nui the urge for some climbing was strong so 1 night in Santiago then straight to the bus terminal for a ride to La Serena where I heard Chiles largest boulder field resides, and so 7 hours on a bus north and I hit La Serena and check in to a real cosy hostel.
After getting the info (with slight difficulty) where the climbing was and how to get there, the next day I set off. Catching a bus from La Serena to the nearby town of Coquimbo, the first two attempts left me in places I really didn’t want to be in especially when im carrying my pack with all my documents and passport etc in, and so precautions were taken!!!
However I found the boulders at a place called Pampilla, and what I heard was right this place is a boulder meca!! Huge boulders scatted on a dessert like landscape with the sea at a stones throw away and many a bird swooping over head. Tom was in his element!!
Everyday for about 5 days I would catch the bus and get about 3-4 hours of bouldering in, getting some pretty hard problems under my belt (I think around V5 was the hardest) and then back to the hostel for dinner and beers with random travelers passing through.
On a rest day I got recommended to try a 2 hour tour through the foothills of the Elqui Valley on (sorry Ellie) a horse!! The weather wasn’t great but the trip was really fun and through some really amazing landscape, I think the horse got a bit pissed off with me as I accidently directed it into a few hedges but it got its own back by putting me into a tree!
I n the evening myself and a couple of other guys went up to an observatory to check out the stars, some people say that the sky in the Elqui Valley is the clearest in the world and I don’t think their far wrong. Looking through a telescope with a magnifying rate of around 200 or something (I cant remember it was 2 weeks ago!) and seeing far off clusters of stars, Jupiter, and being informed of many star constellations. A really beautiful trip.
At this time in Chile there is a huge festival all over Chile celebrating Chiles independence for a week of holiday and much drinking!!! I was being told I could no longer stay in the hostel as it was fully booked due to the holiday, but no worries as my friends from Las Chilcas were coming up and asked if I fancied joining them for a week of climbing in different locations along with many a party in the evening, well my decision was simple.
And so after meeting all the family and having lots of food and confusing spanglish conversations we set off for a day at Totoralillo another boulder meca (but bigger than Pampilla!) a day of running around amazed by the quantity and diversity of the climbing but this time with good company and people to save me when I fell off, (which I was lacking in Pampilla on my own).
The next stop was to camp deep in the Elqui Valley for 2 nights in a place called Montegrande where there resided one boulder with one problem at a grade of around V6-7 this was impossibly hard but Esteban (one of my chillean friends) came so close, a huge traverse on sloppy holds and nothing but heel hooks for the feet to finish on a Castle hill style mantle!! Intense man! And of course due to the festival a huge party in the evening getting very drunk and dancing (trying to) the traditional chile dance called cueca where basiclly I figure you move around fairly randomly with a piece of tissue in one hand waving it around in no particular rhythm I believe a few jokes were made on my behalf. Waking up with slight hangovers for a day of slacklining in the Plaza de Armas of Pisco Elqui (basically the towns square).
The next 2 nights were located back in Totoralillo where camping on the beach front and full on days of bouldering, there is just so much here to do easily a lifetime of routes to be had here!
The time then came for my amigos to depart back to Santiago, we all went to the bus terminal to say our goodbyes and sort out tickets only to find that my ticket to San Pedro was not possible for when I wanted it and I would have to stay in La Serena for another 4 days on my own, a slight bummer however, it just so happened to be one of my friends birthdays the next day so a huge party in Santiago was to be had, I got invited and naturally I accepted this offer. So a slight change of plan leaves me in Santiago where I stayed at a friends house had an awesome party and got some more climbing in at a place called Arrayan or sometimes known as the magic forrest, once again another killer day of climbing in a truly breath taking place, some great climbs completed with some flashes and on sights whooo yeaaa!!!!
And that just about brings me up to today where I am leaving for San Pedro, on a bus that will take something like 25-30 hours, I am not looking forward to this ride!!! But I have heard so many amazing things about San Pedro this is a must also due to my amigos in Santiago I have climbing contact waiting for me there……things don’t get much better!!!!
Until the next time guys, much love and peace!!!
tom

The use of the self timer was taken great advantage of!
Pampilla

Possibly a first ascent, if so its called ´all along the watch tower´ V3
This stallion was not leaving without his oats!!

A slightly uncomfortable place for a gringo to be walking around in....
The view from my friends parents house.

Pame on the slackline
Camp at Monte Grande

Deep in the Elqui Valley where the mighty ´sueños´ or dreams in ingles resides
Bouldering Totoralillo

Totoralillo.
You see what happens Larry? Do you see what happens when you step on a cactus!!!

Camped on the beach.
Sunset at Totoralillo.

Walking to Cajon del Arrayan.
climbing in the magic forest.

Rapa Nui

2007-09-07T09:17:00.000-07:00

The date, AD 450 Rapa Nui was first touched by King Hotu Matura arriving from the east to hit the islands north coast to form Anakena. The first few centuries past and the islanders grew slowly at first then later on population grew at a rapid pace, gradually clans devided and huge human like statues were built to protect their land and so the moai were created. Cultivation of the land took its toll on the island and soon enough by the late 17th century clan warfare broke out. Moai were toppled over to demoralise different clans, at one time 1100 people lived here and after the wars 100 were left, leaving incredible monuments of a civilisation far from forgotten but who keep their building skills buried deep in secrecy and mystery…….
The date, 2nd of September 2007, 3700km from mainland Chile and a strange new face enters the island long awaiting this trip for many years.
I arrive at Hanga Roa airport pick up my bags and head to the campsite, located in front of the sea on the west coast to meet, as usual friendly travellers. We all get set up and have a little wonder around the tranquil town of Hanga Roa pick up a few supplys and enjoy a good meal with rum and beer accompanied with many a story.
The first day I go and check the local easily accessible moai (the famous heads). A beautiful walk along the coast about 30 mins from camp and there reside Ahu Tahai, 5 moai on there ceremonial platform (Ahu), absolutely incredible. I never imagined these enigmas to be so big some range up to 21m!!! however these ones were on average 5m or so, for so long I have wanted to stand infront of one of humanities archaeological wonders, something very magic resides on this island and the fact that how these things got here are still based on theory and wonder adds to the islands atmosphere.
The next day I hooked up with an Ozy (Dane who showed me how to surf for the first time!) and a Polish (Mike aka Borat) fellow camper who persuaded me to hire out a moto cross bike with them- this decision was awesome!!! And so 24 hours of ripping up dirt roads in Rapa Nui scaring myself but loving every dust filled second. We cruised around and caught the sights of the Moais dotted around the island and finished up on the beach for some sun soaking. The next morning I got up early (its possible) and headed to Rano Raraku. This is the birth place of the moai, at the base of this old volcano there is like a cemetery of moais who didn’t make it to there Ahu some stand some face down, the most impressive aspect here is to see the moais half carved out of the mountain face and to see how it was done. A quick walk to the top had to be done for some amazing panoramic snaps.
Back on the bike to check out a few more moai to be ticked off then sadly hand the bike in. We checked out a nearby volcano called Rano Kau where I have never been so taken away by such scenery. You walk through an ancient ceremonial village called Orongo where the King used to chill out with dances and rituals and what have yous. To stumble across the head of the volcano it was just huge!!!! A picture just does not justify it, it blows you away, plus hundreds of petroglyphs to feast your eyes and camera on.
Rapa Nui has so much to offer I recommend it to anyone and not just for 6 days a month could easily be lived out on this island, very sad to leave this magical place, I have probably missed bits and pieces out of the writing above but im mega tired of staring at this screen. Hope you all enjoy the photos!!!
Much love Tom xx
Peace

Sunset at camp
Base camp

Dane and Borat all time on the beach
The impressive Ahu Marotiri, the most moai to stand alongside each other.

My buddies died face down in the muck so you and I could enjoy this island! Im staying, im finishing my coffee!
Slacklining Rapa Nui

Ranu Kau
The beast. A Honda 250 tornado, awsome man!!

Carved from stone
My personal favourite moais; Ahu Nau Nau

The base of the quary.

On top of Ranu Raraku

We go way back.... Ahu Nau Nau

camp friends.
Sunset at Ahu Tahai

Good things come to those who wait.......

2007-08-31T13:51:00.000-07:00

Heh everyone!! Time for another entry and what a killer 2 weeks it has been since Portillo, its hard to beleive already a month has flown by, and so, this is what has been floating my boat;
On arrival back into Santiago I met up with some Chilean friends I made back in Portillo, who gave me the insider info on places in Santiago, showed me around and even invited me back to there house for a meal and drinks! 3 days of Santiago and then I had to go and check out how to get to the most important aspect of this trip, oh yea, the climbing man!!!
All packed up and ready to go with food and camp supplys, trekking through the Santiago underground with a seriously heavy pack to get to the estacion central then onto the bus terminal, one way ticket to Las Chilcas please!!! About an hour on the coach then the bus stops and this guy ushers me off I collect my bags, and the bus roars off leaving me in a cloud of dust and exaust fumes to find im in the middle of nowwhere!! My first thought was how the hell am I gonna get back,my second thought was holy shit look at those crags!!!!!
After setting up camp in a not so desirable area (near to the road and on hard ground) I took a stroll around mouth dragging on the ground looking at these awsome lines, but something was missing, where are all the climbers? and so Wednesday passed-no climbers, Thursday- no climbers, Friday-a small boulder session on uninspiring rock then by the afternoon HOLA! there be some climbers, conversation was small due to my awsome linguistic skills, but none the less afew climbs in the bag. They then showed me a much nicer area to camp as aparently its unsafe to be so close to the crags on a weekend due to people who like to see you climb then steal your things.
Anyway woke up Saturday and my new amigos had gone and left behind 4 other people who then became my new climbing partners they helped me with my spanish and I with there English, an excellent day of climbing followed, lots of hard routes attempted and mostly failed but heh all good training. There be not many easy routes in this place Chileans dont mess around when it comes to this climbing game. In the evening followed a fire and food to be shared by all.
Sunday once again another beautifull day of climbing but only a few routes done as a warm up on a 7a (the hardest grade i climbed back in new zealand) really took its toll on a guy who hasnt climbed in a month or so.The sun goes down and time to catch the bus back, (you just have to wave the bus down on the busy road). One of my fellow climbers named Christian offered to put me up for a few days at his place as he lived in the mountains with so much rock around teasing him to climb but with no partner. It didnt take me long to decide.
Christian and his family welcomed me in to there home, fed and gave me shelter for 5 days, truly amazing people I am forever grateful and in their debt (muchos gracias). For 4 days Christian showed me a new area to climb each day weather it be sport routes with a backdrop of the snowcaped mountains or bouldering infront of a fierce river, always top quality climbs and together with Christian great company.
PURA VIDA!!!!!
If you are interested this is a website created by Christian about all the climbs in the Cajon Del Maipo area where he lives and we climbed (im on there with a couple of first ascents woohooa)

www.nuevoextremoexpediciones.cl

Pura Vida!!!

Las Chilcas.

Probably the nicest part of Santiago I have seen, my hostel is right behind me.

Camp area numero uno, many a restless night.

Dani climbing hard.
This is the really hardcore wall, with a 2meter incline and routes at around 20m in height.

Sunset at Las Chilcas.

Christians pad.

So close to the on-sight, really beautiful bouldering on the first day at Cajon Del Maipo.

PURA VIDA!!

Christian cranking his way up.

The first day of routes.

This is Chile.

Whats what?

New boulders, new problems. SIC!
A view from the bouldering.

Party in Portillo

2007-08-20T09:23:00.000-07:00

So after an insane amount of flying through the clouds i hit south american soil, a very brief stop over at Sao Paulo, then onto Buenos Aires for the exchange to Santiago. Breath taking views flying over the andes to a smooth landing in this countrys capital.

Lets get this travelling game started!!!

So an awsome little spoonful of luxory at the Hotel Atton, where jet lag is kicking in but easily defused with the discovery of Kunstmann - a dark ale type beverage, a couple of those puppies and off to bed ready to be picked up in the morning by portillo transport.

102 miles from santiago and around about 2 and a half hours driving through flat cactus ridden shrubland then onto intimidating gorges and valleys up and up and up on snake like road to an altitude of 2880m to a resort nestled in the longest mountain range in the southern hemisphere....... You got it Portillo!!!

What a place to start any trip, after checking in i make my way to my home for the next 2 weeks, the cosy (ish) Inca lodge, which of course is the cheapest option and full of like minded people who just wanna cruise on thoses beautiful slopes surrounding us.

And so, a typical day in Portillo would be drag yourself out of bed, usually with a killer hangover and grab some breakfast.Meet friends, decide what slopes to ride, gear up, get ya board and get your arse on one of those chair lifts! Some of thoses chair lifts are so scary one time i thought i was clear at the top and the next thing i know im on the ground with a killer head ache as the chair had swung round and taken me out, thoses things take no prisoners!!! Also there are these unique lifts called puma lifts(or somethinglike that) which are basically a row of 5 t bars which you put in between your legs and catterpult you to the top of some of the more intense slopes, these slingshot lifts are the scariest things i have ever experienced, it satred ok then got faster and faster then once at the top a huge sigh of releif and lots of laughter from fellow newbies whos balls had also shrunk!!

At around 5 oclock the lifts will close and its time for some afternoon tea (and a biscuit) swiftly followed by a hot tub session and then maybe a sauna or a movie-whatever takes ya fancy. After a good evening meal its time to get ready for a serious evening of abusing the liver. In the hotel it tended to be mega expensive so just across the road there laid a pub which had beers at around 60p each- this was taken full advantage of, and also delving into the local drink of pisco sour- a potent brandy type liquer which is best mixed with sprite. Many a night will end at the disco for bizarre dance moves and eventually getting back to the Inca for about 4-5am.

Throughout Portillo I have met some truly amazing people of which will never be forgotten, there friendships and genorosity have left me humbled and honoured to meet such fine folks much love and peace to you all.

Hope this little entry is enjoyed by you folks back home, its hard to put those 2 weeks in to words other than AWSOME!!!

Flying over the Andes
So many people would call me bob marley, this joke wore thin.....

getting to portillo on snake like roads

The big yellow blob is the main hotel just infront is the inca lodge(to the right)

looking out of my front door

its time for some riding

Waking up to this never gets dull. The middle is actually a lake which is frozen over

Good times with Escudo and friends

The first week of great friends

This is who the brittish do it!!! (sorry Glen but this is just priceless)

Paul pulling some grabs

Chantel, Dusty,Dani,Paul great friends awsome times

Our last night, alcohol craziness

Beautiful Times, Beautiful Friends.........

2007-08-01T06:30:00.000-07:00

Alrighty guys, blog post numero uno!!! Yet again another awsome party at the fleece, a massively huge thank you to all you guys who showed up, it really meant alot. That night will never be forgotten!

So im off tomorow, catching a late flight from Heathrow and then onto Santiago for some more unforgettable times, cheers again guys ill keep you all updated as much as possible via the blog and the odd email.

much love and peace to you all, Tom x

sorry about the blurred pics, i beleive alcohol is the culprit

A blurred Mr Downie
Some pool action

Coleman!!! cheers for the cd bro, youll be missed man
Rock on, i love this photo

outdoor in the fresh smoky air
heh man it seems you have a little rash on ya chin.... hahaha
danni n tristan
the rash doesnt seem contagious
Take it easy bro, look forward to seein tilli in a few years!!

the ol man, enjoying a beverage to quench ones first
CRIMINALS! wud wud
awsome to see ya franco, tim u seem to have shrunk

a beautiful fleece style circle party

Groovin Slowly

beautiful times

SEE YA GUYS LOVE YOU ALL

PEACE

TOM

XXXX